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The Audi RS5 Sportback is a fast five-door hatchback that's an alternative to more traditional super-saloons
like the BMW M3, Mercedes C63 and Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Verde.

Review: Audi RS5 Sportback

Tested: Audi RS5 Sportback, Audi Sport Edition

 From the top, it’s important that you know how much I like this car. Enormously, as it turns out. So, you may, at any time prior to the verdict some 1,300-odd words further down, want to revisit this opening paragraph…for the purposes of balance, you understand.

#NotFakeNews: There is such a thing as a car that's too good. Most of the premium quality cars currently available at any price point still carry a few notable flaws – either outright deal breakers or niggly-nagglies – that remind you that humans are still in charge of their respective designs and build.

Rarely does a car come along that makes you wonder if the entire development team was replaced by overly scrutinous androids. The 2019 Audi RS5 Sportback is one such car, and its class-leading antics are almost frustrating in their pitch-perfect execution.

The Audi RS5 Sportback is a fast five-door hatchback that's an alternative to more traditional super-saloons like the BMW M3, Mercedes C63 and Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Verde. You'll pay more for the Audi than the M3 or Giulia but the Mercedes is slightly more expensive than all three.

In many respects, the RS5 Sportback is identical to its coupe sibling, but has two extra doors and an additional 60mm between the axles for improved rear comfort.

Unlike similar feral products from the likes of BMW M or Mercedes-AMG stables, Audi Sport’s fastest models tend not to look like they could kneecap you for no immediately apparent reason. Their performance-oriented styling is usually more subtle and conducive to flying in under the radar.

But while this RS5 Sportback would likely still come across as the more sophisticated member of a trio comprising a C63 and an M3, the 20in alloy wheels, high-gloss black trim pieces and louder sports exhaust introduced as part of the Audi Sport Edition mean it can still turn heads.

Turning more heads and being the trigger for indiscriminate curb side/traffic light chatter was the Sonoma Green paint colour. While undoubtedly a bold left-field choice, I really loved it and thought it well-suited to the character of the car.

Inside, it’s back to RS5 business as usual for this Sportback model. You get a lovely interior with plenty of plush materials, a slick infotainment system with smartphone mirroring, and Audi’s signature Virtual Cockpit digital driver’s display.

Audi’s top-spec Navigation Plus infotainment system comes as standard, along with the brand’s Virtual Cockpit. This replaces the conventional analogue instrument panel with a 12.3in high-resolution digital display that can show information on speed and revs in the form of conventional gauges; satnav instructions or performance data, or several combinations of each.

The driving position is tough to fault, too, with plenty of seat and steering wheel adjustment and a comfortable backrest that provides plenty of upper back support. You can adjust both the bolster and lumbar support to find a supportive position, and they even have a massage function to accompany the heated elements. 

Even if you’re extremely tall, you’re unlikely to have any complaints about how far your seat slides back or how much room there is above your head, despite how its standard panoramic roof reduces ceiling height compared to the regular A5 Coupe or Sportback.

The Sportback also gains a large rear hatch, making it a truly practical vehicle, despite its 465-litre boot being 15 litres down on the Giulia, M3 and C63. With a bigger boot opening than its saloon rivals, it's easier to load bulky items, and with the rear seats folded down there's space for flat pack furniture and even a bike.

It might have an Audi badge glued onto it, but the RS5’s 2.9-litre V6 petrol engine is shared with the Porsche Panamera 4S. Thanks to its twin turbochargers, this engine delivers 444hp and 442lb/ft (600Nm) of torque and feels much more urgent low down in the rev range than the previous V8-powered RS5.

Even so, it’s worth revving the V6 hard to make the most of its performance. Do this and the quattro four-wheel drive system provides traction to slingshot you off the line, making the 3.9sec 0-62mph time seem entirely plausible – and it’ll top out at a governed 155mph.

Once on the move, though, it never feels quite as quick as an Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio, BMW M4 Competition Pack or the Mercedes-AMG C63. Mind you, you’ll be in licence-losing territory quicker than you can say Quadrifoglio.

The automatic gearbox has eight well-chosen ratios. It operates smoothly when you’re driving sensibly, although there is a noticeable delay to change down when you ask for a sudden burst of acceleration. It’s smooth and obedient when you take control manually, too, but isn’t quite as snappy to shift as the dual-clutch gearboxes in rivals. 

Set the car into Dynamic mode on the Audi Drive Select system and the automatic gearbox response sharpens up; it’s quicker to change down, allowing much easier overtakes. It also holds onto gears for longer so you can build up through the rev range for even more power.

The Dynamic mode also ramps up the noise from the optional sports exhaust; in this setting, you’ll find the engine howls and parps when you’re revving it, but the downside is a pronounced drone at speed. In Comfort mode, the engine note is more refined, but is sometimes intruded upon by rumbling road noise. 

Dynamic mode also adds weight to the steering, but it’s still quite heavy even in Comfort mode, making it difficult to turn out of T-junctions or parking spaces sharply. Enter a series of corners and you’ll find that it’s easy to place the front of the car, but while the optional Dynamic Steering system (which varies how far you have to turn the wheel, depending on speed) certainly helps you get around tight turns easier, it also reduces the sense of connection with the front wheels and makes it less instinctive to know what they’re doing.

However, no matter how hard you push, the RS5 never feels like it’s going to get too out of shape. Some may miss the sense of adjustability and ‘honed-to-hoon’ dynamism offered by the rear-wheel-drive Guilia, M4 and C63, but in the dry, the traction you get out of corners from Audi’s quattro system is virtually unbeatable.

Fast, frantic but perfectly practical, the Audi RS 5 Sportback aims to be the market's definitive mid-sized high performance five-door hatch. It gets a sophisticated quattro 4WD system and can hit 174mph on the Nürburgring but is just as happy popping to the skip on a weekend, or collecting your dry cleaning. The spec of this revised version looks impressive, including an RS sport exhaust system and a sport differential. You only truly get a sense of just how fast it is by following behind in something else.

Sure. Some alternatives are cheaper and sound more exciting and, while there’s a much-welcomed 60mm more legroom than the coupe, the rear can still feel cramped for those gifted with more height than I (which, to be fair, is pretty much everyone else).

I take nothing away from Audi’s ethos of quality and refinement but, compared with its rivals the RS5 Sportback feels like something of a blunt clinical instrument from behind the wheel, and one that perhaps lacks character. Some may say the RS5’s envelope hasn’t even been opened, let alone pushed.

An Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio is more exciting, while the V8-powered Mercedes-AMG C 63 has a greater sense of occasion. But, hey, see paragraph one.

But what other high-performance four-wheel drive mid-sized hatch of this sort is there to challenge this one? The closest thing the market has to offer, a rear-driven Mercedes-AMG C 63 wagon, wouldn't give you the all-round grip and really needs a dry racetrack and a licence to burn rubber if it's to appeal over an RS5 Sportback.

As for a high performance SUV, forget it: you'd be all over the place just trying to keep this Audi in sight. Drive it and you'll experience a slightly guilty thrill as if something this much fun really couldn't be legal. Indeed, one day cars like this might well be legislated out of existence.

In the meantime, enjoy this one while you can. The robot in me loved it.

Fast Facts: Audi RS5 Sportback Sport Edition

Engine: 2.9-litre TFSI twin turbocharged V6.

Transmission: Audi quattro AWD, via 8-speed tiptronic automatic

Often, the decision to buy our next car is one that is thrust upon us by unforeseen circumstances; a broken down banger or sudden vehicle theft, for example. Occasionally, however, we may be lucky enough to plan ahead and choose when we want to make that all-too-precious upgrade to our next car.

Choosing the right time to buy can actually be as tricky as choosing which car you actually want. Should you buy in summer or winter? Start of the month or end of the month? Weekday or weekend? All these are questions we ask ourselves and rarely know what is best.

We'll start with an easy one: If you have the flexibility to visit a dealer during the week you’re more likely to get better facetime as they’ll be quieter. This is an easy way to put yourself in the driving seat. (Sorry, couldn't resist the pun...)

The type of car will also affect when the best time to buy is. For example, convertibles and sports cars tend to be more popular in summer (picture top-down winding roads with the sun beating down on the way to the beach), and so you may find cheaper deals for these during the winter months. On the flip side, 4x4s are more sought after during winter (thinking more about dark, wet and snowy school runs now...), so these could be available at a discount over spring and summer.

Also consider the weather. When it’s pouring with rain or snowing outside, people don’t really want to go out, so the dealerships may be quieter. Similarly, if it’s a glorious day, the average person wouldn’t want to spend it walking round a car showroom (me personally, it sounds like heaven, but that’s just me). And, of course, when it’s quiet in the showroom, the salesperson may be getting itchy feet for a sale… I think I sense a bargain approaching…

You’ll need to consider taxing your vehicle too. These are priced per month, so if you buy at the end of the month you will still have to pay for a full month. So it’s cheaper to collect your vehicle at the beginning of the month. And remember, tax is no longer transferable with the sale of a vehicle.

December and January can be a great time to buy a car too. Around Christmas time and the new year people are not really thinking about buying a car, so demand is much lower. This means dealers will be eager to get a sale if they see you enter their showroom. Consider this advantage you.

Usually, the first thing you'll decide is whether you want to buy new or used, as this will greatly affect when the right time to buy is. If you're still undecided, check out our article Used car vs new car - Which should you buy? for more information.

The majority of new cars are bought through dealerships. These dealers are given targets by the manufacturer and incentives to sell as many vehicles as possible. The rewards they get can be extremely lucrative and tend to be calculated every quarter. That means if you want a good deal, turning up at the end of March, June, September or December could mean you get a big discount if the salesperson needs a quick sale to hit a quarterly target.

Another important factor to consider is the biannual number plate changes. Each year in March and September new registration plates are released. This often means there is a surge in demand in buyers wanting the latest plate on their new car (to hold resale value as much as possible), so beware as the higher the demand, the smaller the discount. At the beginning of these months you’ll be unlikely to see many bargains. That said, if you can hold tight until the end of the month, the initial surge may have died down and you might be able to find some wriggle room.

Similarly, if you’re not too fussed about having the latest number plate, you could try to bag a deal at the end of February or August when demand is often lower. Be careful though, because much of any saving will be coming off your future part-exchange price.

It’s worth noting also, that if you want the car quickly, you’ll likely have to take one of the dealers stock or pre-registered cars (also called nearly-new cars), as these can be turned around quickly. Dealers are often very happy to sell their stock vehicles as they just accumulate dust in their showrooms and plummet in value. They are often models that are soon-to-be-replaced with revised facelifted or brand new models too.

Pre-registered cars are cars that the dealer has bought and registered in their own name to bump up their sales figures. They then intend to sell these on themselves, usually within a few months, albeit at a good discount. They often buy a huge number of these towards the end of March and September to hit sales targets, so if you look around June or December you may be able to scoop a good deal on a pre-reg.

A brand new vehicle made to order will take a few weeks and may not be able to be registered until the following quarter, so bear this in mind too.

Unfortunately, bartering a deal on the actual car is only half the job of buying a new car. If you’re looking at finance packages, or any add-ons such as servicing plans or tyre and paint protection, then expect the haggling game to continue for a while longer yet. Also note that the salesperson will likely have specific targets for each of these too. For more information on the types of finances available, see our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?.

Demand for used cars can follow a similar pattern to new cars. This is because at the change of number plates in March and September, when there is a huge rush for all the latest models with the latest plates, there is naturally a huge influx of part-exchanges that are then sold on the used vehicle market. So consider this a good time to potentially get a 3 or 4 year old car for a steal.

Essentially, if you're in a hurry then you won't have much leway when it comes to choosing when you buy your next car. But, if you've got time on your side, consider some of the tips above and you may be able to get just that little bit extra thrown into the deal. Good luck!

Few electric cars have caused as much of a furore as the Tesla Model 3. It’s been teased and talked about, previewed and – not least – plagued by production issues that have seen the European launch date pushed back repeatedly.

If this be our automotive future, beam me down, Scotty!

Now a common sight on US roads for over a year, Tesla’s more affordable and long-awaited Model 3 has finally arrived in the UK. It brings competitive performance, a practical EV range and stunning technology to the mainstream executive class.

Pricewise and with a premium badge, the closest rival to the Model 3 is the BMW i3 at £35,350. Other less premium EVs include the KIA e-Niro (£32,995), VW e-Golf (£33,785) and Hyundai Kona Electric (£26,900).

Lower down the EV price scale are the Renault Zoe, KIA Soul, Nissan Leaf and MINI Electric, all of which continue to appeal as our driving habits adapt to a new automotive world order.

In the non-EV arena, Tesla has its sights set on sales conquests from traditional ICE-powered executive saloons such as the venerable BMW 3 Series, Audi A4, Jaguar XE, Mercedes C-Class and Volvo S60.

The Model 3 is smaller, cuter and imbued with a style cheekiness missing from the bigger, heavier-looking Tesla S and X models. The front end is short thanks to the extended cabin area and the car is unlocked with a credit card waved against the B-pillar – or you can set up your smartphone to work just like Tesla’s card key by unlocking the car as you approach.

When unlocked, push the left side of the flush door handles to open the door. The handles don’t pop out as they do on the Model S and are a tad awkward to use with one hand if you’re holding anything else.

Inside, you’ll find that space is pretty similar to that in a BMW 3 Series. There’s the added bonus of a flat floor with no transmission hump, but rear headroom might be a little tight for taller adults who could have their heads brushing the sloped, full-length glass roof that the Model 3 gets as standard.

It certainly feels airy and spacious and is quite comfortable throughout and you’ve got a choice of front and rear boots with a combined 542 litres of storage space.

Access to the rear luggage space is good by class standards and the boot lid is hinged to lift higher than most saloons. Meanwhile, the rear seats split and fold to reveal the surprisingly large luggage area.

Slide into the front seats and you are enveloped in openness. It’s a perfect example of just how well ‘minimalism’ can work in a car. Steering wheel aside, there is nothing directly in front of the driver and even the vents are hidden in a single, slim crease that stretches the full width of the dashboard and looks like a design feature rather than a vent.

The dash is dominated by a slim, 15-inch landscape touchscreen. It controls absolutely everything, including the air-flow direction from those vents, steering wheel adjustment, external mirrors – and more.

You may think that having everything on the screen could be problematic, and although Tesla has put the most important driver information as close to the driver as possible, you do have to look further away from the road to check your speed than you would usually.

A head-up display would be a welcome addition and go some way to solving this problem. Otherwise, it doesn’t take much time to become familiar with the screen’s menu layouts and how to use the two switches on the steering wheel.

In practice, it's these wheel-mounted controls that you use to control most functions, including the audio functions, cruise control and the like. 

There are no conventional trim grades as such. Instead, the three available variants of Tesla Model 3 are based more on electric motor power output and battery range.

In the UK, the line-up consists of the ‘Standard Plus’ with its 254 mile range as tested here, ‘Long Range’ (348 miles) and ‘Performance’ (329 miles). The Standard Plus has just one electric motor driving the rear wheels, while the Long Range and Performance models have two motors driving all four wheels. Be warned: the battery range will plummet if you drive the car like you stole it.

The equipment list is pretty much standard throughout the Model 3 range: 18- or 20-inch alloys, electric front seats, heated mirrors, heated seats, parking sensors, navigation, etc.

It might be the least expensive Tesla currently available but, even in range-entry guise few are likely to be disappointed – as even the base model packs a claimed 254-mile range and the ability to sprint from 0-60mph in just 5.3sec. It even comes with Tesla’s ‘Autopilot Drive Assistance’ system, which takes the edge off long trips and brings added space-age feel.

A dual-motor version with all-wheel drive and increased range is available as well; it can cover a claimed 329 miles and serves up a supercar-rivalling 0-60mph time of 3.2sec.

One thing strikes you as soon as you take the wheel of a Tesla Model 3: its steering is surprisingly fast-geared, giving the wheel an immediate response. At first some drivers may find this disconcerting, as it makes the car respond to inputs in a heartbeat, but you’ll quickly learn to enjoy the agility this imparts, and its quick turn-in becomes second nature.

It's quite a heavy car, with a kerb weight stretching from 1645kg to 1,847kg depending on the size of batteries fitted, but it doesn’t really feel it when you thread it along your favourite back road.

The suspension keeps the EV composed through corners, with just a little body roll when you’re really pushing hard. Despite this agility and keen handling, the Model 3 still soaks up the worst road lumps and bumps. If ride comfort is your priority, we would recommend sticking with a smaller choice of alloy wheels, however.

Like most EVs, the Model 3 features a regenerative braking system that helps top up the battery when you’re driving. There are two modes; in ‘standard’, the car slows significantly when you lift off the accelerator, which feeds more energy back to the battery. The ‘low’ mode is less severe and is probably best for most driving conditions. Drive the Model 3 with a measured degree of attentiveness and it’s very possible to match the claimed range in the real world.

Of course, you don't necessarily have to do all of the driving. In the UK, the Model 3 comes with Autopilot as standard, with adaptive cruise control and lane-keeping. You still have to rest a hand on the steering wheel just so the system knows you’re conscious, but the Model 3 will accelerate, brake and steer while monitoring the vehicles around you.

Indicate left or right and Autopilot will also judge if it's safe to change lanes and complete the manoeuvre for you. It's the most intuitive semi-autonomous tech driving available right now and regularly gets better thanks to live, over-the-air updates from Tesla.

Investing in a Model 3 gives you access to Tesla’s own network of Superchargers that allow you to charge the battery (from 10-80%) in as little as 30 minutes. In Tesla UK’s early days, recharging was free but now you have to pay each time, but at around £14, the price is still reasonable.

You can also charge at any public CCS charging point. This method takes longer (around 1hr 15min) for the same 10-80% top-up, whereas a full 0-100% charge at home using a 7kW type 2 charger takes 11hr 45min – or overnight at home or at the office during the day – which is little hardship, to be honest.

The Model 3 has been on sale for some time in the US, where it appears to have been largely reliable but plagued by quality control issues like poor paintwork, large gaps between panels and poorly fitted trim.

In the media, this is often attributed to Tesla's relative inexperience in mass producing cars compared with manufacturers like Mercedes, but Tesla is also keen to show it offers great customer service by rectifying issues quickly under warranty.

The Model 3 has yet to prove itself in the fiercely competitive European market. If it can hold a candle to the century-old, fossil fuel-drinking proletariat here, it can be deemed a success.

Euro NCAP has now crash-tested the Model 3 and it scored the highest-ever figure in the safety assist category, with an impressive 94 per cent. Its overall five-star score includes excellent ratings for adult and child occupant protection, and it scored well in the vulnerable road user category too.

The Tesla Model 3 is one of the safest cars on sale and the manufacturer claims the Model 3 is particularly safe thanks to its compact electric powertrain, which allows for large crumple zones and a rigid passenger compartment.

Thanks to its semi-autonomous Autopilot technology, the Model 3 is also covered in myriad sensors and cameras that can help protect occupants by alerting them to danger and even braking or steering itself around obstacles.

Several reasons: If your lifestyle supports an electric car, the Tesla Model 3 is as good as it gets. Tesla needed to introduce a brand-entry product that is more affordable and available in bigger numbers, and while the Model 3 is by no means a cheap option, it is definitely closer to the mark than what came before. 

Progress with electric cars is really gathering momentum and this car is a good indicator of the state of the art. None of the premium marques (Audi, BMW and Jaguar) come close to matching the Model 3's all-round efficiency as well as the convenience of its own-brand Supercharger network.

If you’re after the cheapest Tesla Model 3 on offer, then a £38,100 Standard Range Plus in two-wheel drive form (as tested) is where you need to head. Bragging right aside, it produces a very green 0g/km of CO2 and capable of a claimed range of 258 miles (WLTP) on a full charge.

“Finally, an EV I would spend my own money on.”

With rivals like the Audi e-tron, Jaguar I-Pace and Mercedes EQC lining up to take a slice of the executive electric class, Tesla has never faced so much competition. And yet, despite very publicly reported company difficulties and that growing competition, the Model 3 still feels like a trailblazer…different, but in all the right ways.

The car is great to drive, packed full of tech, is fast and even quite practical. Sure, the ride is more firm than some of its rivals, but it’s never uncomfortable even over our crusty UK roads. Factor in a competitive price, especially given its sheer pace and it’s in a prime position to steal punters away from both EV and non-EV rivals.

When summer has bowed out for another year and the leaves have started to fall, it’s time to think about preparing your car for the winter. The number of breakdowns soares in winter as most drivers are ill-prepared for the changing conditions. Even in the UK’s rather temperate climate, there are still some top tips you can follow to make sure you are ready for when winter finally comes.

When summer has bowed out for another year and the leaves have started to fall, it’s time to think about preparing your car for the winter. The number of breakdowns soares in winter as most drivers are ill-prepared for the changing conditions.

Even in the UK’s rather temperate climate, there are still some top tips you can follow to make sure you are ready for when winter finally comes.

If you know a service is due around the corner, it might make sense to get it booked in before winter. Colder weather exacerbates issues with your car, and rectifying them before autumn is over can help prevent a future breakdown.

Many UK manufacturers offer free winter health checks for your car. If you’ve not heard from your local garage, give them a call. They’re usually more than happy to fit you in - at no cost to you. This is because the law of averages tells them, that the more vehicles they inspect, the more likely they are to find issues that need fixing. Of course, if they find any issues and you want them sorting, then you will need to pay for it.

This is one of the most important parts of your car to have checked. As the temperatures drop, the battery is less efficient meaning its output is reduced. At the same time, people will tend to have their lights and heaters on more. Also, the engine oil gets thicker in colder weather so the battery has to run double time. All of these add additional strain so it’s important to make sure your battery is up to the task.

Car batteries are most effective for around five years, after which time it is worth looking to have them check out and replaced if needs be.

Remember, if your battery is flat and the car won’t start, you might be able to jump-start it with some jump-leads connected to another vehicle’s battery. This could be just enough to get you going to the nearest garage.

Top up your engine coolant with antifreeze

Engine coolant is a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. It’s important to maintain this ratio throughout the year. Many people top up just with water over summer, this means that by winter there isn’t enough antifreeze in the solution to keep it from freezing over during cold snaps. This means your engine can overheat which can be a very costly repair.

The legal tyre tread limit is 1.6mm on any tyre in the UK. That said, during winter it is worth considering replacing any tyres with less than 3mm, as less than this means there’s less grip. As we all know, winter tends to see more rain - and naturally sleet and snow - than other times of the year, so this is when you need the most amount of grip you can get.

Some drivers go as far as having a summer and winter set of tyres. Winter tyres offer increased grip, so if you do a lot of driving in winter this is definitely worth considering. It sounds extreme but in some colder countries this is simply routine for all motorists!

Once you’re happy with your tyres’ treads, check they’re pumped up to the correct pressure. This will help with grip and fuel efficiency.

With winter being so wet, lights can easily get dirty and become less effective. Try to keep them as clean as possible and always check for any cracked lenses. Replace any blown bulbs as well, as you’ll be using your lights a lot more than in the summer months. Remember, lights are not just to help you see, but for you to be seen as well.

Give your windscreen a good clean and check for any cracks as they can grow more quickly in winter. If you do spot any, then ask your insurance company how much it is to repair. It’s often free, or has a nominal fee of £10-25, and doesn’t affect your no-claims bonus. They will usually send someone to your home or place of work as well for convenience.

Top up your screen washer fluid. You will want to have it less diluted in the winter so it has a higher antifreeze concentration.

Run your finger along the wipers and check for any tears. If the edge isn’t smooth then they won’t be able to wipe your windscreen effectively. Consider replacing any torn ones.

It might not seem important as a winter check, but look for any stone chips. Whilst they’re mainly superficial, the salt that is added to roads in winter can attack them and make them worse. It’s a good idea to repair any surface damage before the weather turns. You could also have your car cleaned and polished with wax for an extra layer of protection, or even get your car professionally detailed. It will look awesome and keep your car bodywork in great shape through the winter.

A supply box can be useful in all seasons, but especially so in winter. Here are some handy items to consider keeping in your vehicle at all times:

Whenever going on a long journey, it’s good practice to make sure both you and your vehicle are properly prepared.

Check your windows and lights are clear, and you have enough screenwash. Also check your engine oil level and fuel level before you set off. If you hit major traffic there’s nothing more stressful than running low on fuel and not knowing if you’ll be able to get to a petrol station in time. Similarly, if you have an electric vehicle, check how much range you have in advance.

Check your route online. Whether using a satellite navigation system or not, it’s good to have a rough idea in your head of where you’re going, and any potential backup routes in case you hit heavy traffic or an accident.

On that note, check the traffic before you set off. If there has been an accident on your route it may make sense to go a completely different way.

Also, plan any stops in advance. It’s good to know where the services are on the way so you can schedule breaks for fuel, food, drink, toilets or to have a rest or sleep.

Whether you have a fairly modern vehicle, or one several years old, it’s always a good idea to have suitable breakdown cover. Policies can be quick and easy to set up, and if you do break down, it’s good to know you have support available.

Make sure you keep a copy of your policy number and a contact telephone number so you know who to contact if the need arises. Worst case scenario just google the company name and give them a call quoting your vehicle registration number.

It’s important to always expect the unexpected, and if you follow these steps, you should make it through another winter without any major issues. You’ll likely increase the lifespan of your vehicle as well, so it’s a win-win.

Whether to buy a new car or lease one can often be a difficult decision. It’s difficult to know which offers the best investment, and which is best suited to your individual circumstances. We discuss the differences between them.

Should you lease or buy your next car? PCH vs PCP

Whether to buy a new car or lease one can often be a tough decision. It’s difficult to know which offers the best investment, and which is best suited to your individual circumstances. We discuss the differences between them.

Often called Personal Contract Hire (PCH), or Business Contract Hire (BCH), leasing is essentially a long term loan of a new vehicle. It can be a great way to get the keys to a brand new luxury motor, with a relatively small upfront cost. The main difference between leasing and buying new, however, is you never actually own the vehicle, and at the end of the contact, you simply hand the keys back to the leasing company.

Leasing contracts tend to come for any term between 2 and 5 years. You normally pay an initial deposit (usually 3-6 months equivalent monthly payments) then a fixed monthly payment for the remainder of the term. 

Yes. As part of the leasing agreement you will have to agree to a set maximum number of annual miles. If you go over this agreed limit then there will be a fee to pay per mile extra you have driven. As a general rule, it’s better to overestimate the number of miles at the beginning than pay penalty fees at the end. The costs for excess mileage fees can vary dramatically across lenders, and could end up being very expensive.

Warranty, Servicing, MOT and Vehicle Excise Duty

Most lease companies will offer a warranty and servicing package. As the vehicle will most likely be brand new, you will automatically get the manufacturer’s warranty included (often around 3 years). If you’re leasing for longer than this, say 4 or 5 years for example, you may be offered an extended warranted option to keep your vehicle covered for the duration of the contract.

All vehicles require regular servicing to keep them in good working order, and your lease contract will almost definitely require the vehicle to have all of these done, and on time. That said, the cost of the servicing is not always included in the contract, so it’s worth enquiring how much extra it will cost to have the service package on top of the vehicle deal as well. It’s also worth contacting the vehicle manufacturer directly separately, it is often cheaper to take out a separate service package with them as opposed to just going with the leasing company. They know people will pay for the convenience of a single monthly bill with them.

For more information on why you should keep your vehicle serviced regularly, see our article Why you should get your vehicle serviced regularly.

As standard, there are rarely any MOTs included with a lease. New vehicles are exempt from having to pass an MOT for their first 3 years, but thereafter you’ll need to have one every year. Check with your lease company whether you have any MOTs included if your contract is for longer than 3 years. (For more information on what an MOT is, and what is checked, see our article What is an MOT, what is checked and when is it due?)

One benefit of leasing is that Vehicle Excise Duty (vehicle tax) will be included in the package. Whereas if you were to buy the vehicle, whether cash or finance, it would be your responsibility as the buyer to fork out for this.

Regardless of how you obtain your next vehicle, you'll have a number of ongoing running costs that you'll need to factor into your budget. Be sure to add the cost of these onto any monthly payment you are quoted when calculating the total cost of having the vehicle.

Wear and tear items such as tyres and brakes won’t be included in any finance or leasing agreement, so factor in the cost of having to place these periodically.

You’ll  have to provide your own insurance for the vehicle (fully comprehensive, of course, if financing or leasing), to ensure you are legally allowed to drive the vehicle and are covered in the event of an accident. Make sure you get a quote online before signing any contracts. Insurance on new cars can be quite a lot more than on used cars.

For more information on whether to buy new or used, see our article Used car vs new car - Which should you buy?.

It’s the bain of all our lives, but regardless of buying or leasing, you’ll need to budget for regular trips to the petrol station. Of course, if you’re considering an electric vehicle, this could be a lot less expensive.

For more information on whether to consider buying an electric vehicle, see our article Is it time to buy an electric vehicle?, or for help choosing which fuel type to opt for, see Our guide to different types of fuel - Petrol vs Diesel.

As you do not own the vehicle when leasing, you will be responsible for any repairs that are needed before handing the vehicle back. Acceptable wear and tear is usually allowed, but attempt to hand the keys back with a huge scratch down the side of the car, or a rip in the backseats upholstery, then you’ll be charged a hefty repair cost to put things right.

Not when leasing, and if financing, not until the loan is repaid in full. As the vehicle is always owned by the lender then you will not be authorised to modify the car in any way. When leasing or taking out PCP, it must be handed back in exactly the same state as it was received. Ie, no additional spoilers or engine remaps in sight.

For more information on what a remap is, see our article What is engine remapping and is it worth it?.

What sort of vehicles are available on lease?

You can lease pretty much any type of new vehicle. However, most people tend to opt for a lease in order to obtain a higher-end model than they otherwise could afford. For this reason you tend to find more options available for the more expensive vehicles. Always check the depreciation rate (the amount of value a vehicle loses over time) for the type of vehicle you are after, and in particular the exact make/model you are looking for. The cost of the lease tends to correlate with how much value the car will lose over the lifetime of the lease. Lease companies will favour cars with lower depreciation, so it might be worth investigating buying instead of leasing if the car you are after tends to hold its value better than others. That way, you are the one who benefits when you come to sell the vehicle on.

Leasing is often used by businesses for their fleet of vehicles, or for company cars. Therefore, many lease companies advertise their deals excluding VAT. If you’re considering leasing and it’s not as a business expense, then make sure you budget for the full cost including VAT. In some cases this may mean adding 20% to the advertised price.

Both leasing and car financing will involve a credit check, which will be visible on your record. However, they may not always run a full affordability check, so always make sure you have budgeted for the monthly payments. Once approved though, making regular on-time payments can have a positive effect on your credit score, which may help you get approved for finance in the future.

Always make sure at the end of the lease you have a plan for obtaining your next vehicle. Handing the keys back means you’ll have nothing to show for the payments you’ve been making each month, and so you’ll need to know whether you wish to lease another vehicle, or buy another one when your current car goes back.

This depends on so many different factors. The closest alternative to leasing is to buy a car using Personal Contract Plan (PCP).

For more information on the different types of finance, see our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?.

Much like leasing, with PCP, you have an initial monthly payment and then a fixed number of monthly payments. The main difference is that with PCP you have the option to pay a pre-agreed final balloon payment to buy the vehicle from the finance company. This is often called the Guaranteed Minimum Future Value (GMFV). Alternatively, you can simply hand the vehicle back. 80% of PCP contracts end with the car being returned, despite the option to purchase at the end, so it’s worth comparing total amount payable PCP vs PCH to see which works out the cheapest over the long term.

Regardless though, in terms of investment, leasing is usually the worst option available. This is because at the end of the term you are right back where you started; with no vehicle, but far less cash than before.

What if I can’t make the monthly payments?

If you really can’t make the payments, and need to hand the car back, speak to your finance company immediately as you may still be liable for the full cost of the lease. With PCH, as long as you have paid (or can pay) half the total cost then you are legally allowed to return the car. There may be early return charges though, so bear this in mind.

Alternately, they may be able to offer you an extension on the loan, which would effectively reduce your monthly payments.

With leasing, if you fail to make the payments, then the finance company can repossess the car without a court order.

With PCP, the lender can still repossess the car without a court order, but once a third is paid off, then they would require a court order to do so.

With either option though, always make sure you budget for the monthly payments for the lifetime of the loan.

On the surface, yes. When purchasing a vehicle you won’t be limited on mileage (unless taking out finance - see our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car? for more information), you don’t have to worry about keeping it in any sort of condition to return it, and you won’t have an approaching deadline for when you have to hand the keys back.

However, when buying a new car you will have to pay for the full amount in cash (unless financing), which can be a huge lump sum. Leasing will give you the option of obtaining a far more expensive car for far less initial outlay.

Also, when buying the car yourself, you will be subjected to the depreciation of that car. New cars, especially, have monumentally high levels of depreciation; with 20% being wiped off the value of the vehicle as soon as you take ownership, and most vehicles being worth roughly 50% of their sticker price after 3 years. Therefore, when calculating whether leasing or buying new is a better deal, always check how much a new car might be worth in 3 years' time (or however long you plan to have the vehicle), and calculate the depreciation cost. This will give you the total cost of ownership vs leasing.

When leasing, or financing, a vehicle, you will be bound by a strict timeframe; usually 2 to 5 years. At which point you may have to hand the keys back or pay a final balloon payment to keep the vehicle. Buying the vehicle outright means you choose how long you wish to have it for, and when you want to sell it on to make your next purchase. This is far more flexible. For example, you could decide to upgrade in 18 months if your personal or family situation changes, or on the flip side you could keep the car for 10 or more years if it still fits the bill. Buying a car will always give you the final say. There’s also the peace of mind factor that the car is yours, and no-one is coming to take it away. Sometimes that’s worth a lot in itself.

Before siging up to any new deal, whether buying or leasing, always check you have calculated and budgeted for the total cost of ownership. These 6 points are the main costs to consider.

Depreciation (when comparing leasing against buying)

Running costs. Fuel, insurance, tyres, brakes.

Leasing can be a very convenient way to get a brand spanking new smart set of vehicles, with limited hassle or liability when the vehicle requires maintenance. That said, it can often be the most expensive way to get behind the wheel of a car, so always be sure to budget for the total cost of ownership vs buying when deciding how best to go about getting your next car.

Lease4Less are one of the UK's biggest leasing companies and have some fantastic deals available. They have years of experience and so we would recommend checking them out before deciding which option is right for you.

Should you lease or buy your next car? - PCH vs PCP

Your vehicles in one digital garage
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Stolen vehicle notifications

Full MOT History

Transfer to other users

Digitally store receipts

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Should you lease or buy your next car? - PCH vs PCP

Your vehicles in one digital garageMOT, Road Tax & Service renewal reminders

The Driver Buddy App

Renewal reminders & Alerts

Stolen vehicle notifications

Full MOT History

Transfer to other users

Digitally store receipts

Accident Report

Beautifully designed, across all your devices

All your vehicles, in the cloud

In the palm of your hand

Instant alerts to your phone, wherever you are

Reminders & alerts

Notifications for stolen vehicles

Our Latest Posts

Review: Audi RS5 Sportback

When is the best time to buy a car?

Review: Tesla Model 3

Preparing your vehicle for winter

Should you lease or buy your next car? - PCH vs PCP

Your vehicles in one digital garage
MOT, Road Tax & Service renewal reminders