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There are many advantages to remapping your vehicle. We discuss what remapping actually is, how it affects your vehicle and what the potential upsides and downsides may be.

Modern vehicle engines are controlled by a computer known as the Engine Control Unit (ECU).  This tiny computer controls aspects of the engine such as ignition timing, air/fuel ratio and boost pressure. By adjusting these settings the vehicle can be altered to increase either performance or economy, or sometimes both.

Remapping, often called Chipping, is when third party software is installed onto the ECU to replace the manufacturer’s default software. This new software can have customised settings to get the most out of the engine and can often be tailored to each specific vehicle.

It is usually installed by connecting a laptop to the vehicle’s OBD serial port, which means it can be done quite quickly and non-invasively. Older vehicles had to have their engine’s computer chip completely removed and replaced with a new chip that has the new software already on it. This is why it used to be called chipping.

By changing the ECU software, the engine can perform a lot closer to its own maximum capabilities - often by increasing horsepower and torque by 20% or more! By default, most vehicles have their performance intentionally dialled down when they leave the factory for a multitude of reasons. Often this can be to meet emissions regulations, or economy or noise regulations.

Additionally, vehicles always come with a warranty, and the last thing the manufacturer wants is to have to rebuild or replace damaged engines. For that reason the performance is always kept well within the capability of the engine.

Most manufacturers also tend to release facelifted versions of each model of car they produce after a few years before they release completely new versions. By adjusting these ECU settings themselves on the facelifted models they can quickly and easily increase the vehicle’s performance figures, making them more desirable without much or any additional engineering required.

Yes. Remapping is often called Stage 1 tuning and comes as part of many stages offered by the tuning company. Stage 1 is nearly always just a simple ECU software change. Stage 2 and beyond will usually comprise of further software changes as well as additional hardware, such as a new exhaust system and high-pressure fuel pump. Stages 3 and 4 will often involve upgrading the vehicle’s turbocharger or supercharger. Later stages tend to require more invasive work and provide fewer gains in performance per pound than the first stage.

Is remapping dangerous or harmful to the engine?

Changing settings that affect the control of an engine can have harmful effects, it all depends on who wrote the software, and how the vehicle tuner configures it to the vehicle. For this reason we would never recommend installing your own software, or software from an unverified company. There are specialist tuning companies that write ECU software and they will usually test and tweak it for a year or more on many vehicles before making it available to the public. Going with one of these companies means the software you have installed is most likely going to be safe to use, but always check reviews first.

Because the software being installed is rarely written by the vehicle’s manufacturer, it will most likely void any warranty you have on the vehicle. At the end of the day it’s not the manufacturer’s decision to push the engine to its limits (or beyond) and if something were to go wrong you could end up paying for an engine rebuild yourself. The software company that wrote the map will also be unlikely to cover these costs too. That's why it’s so important to go with a trusted company that has a lot of experience.

Is remapping really just for performance cars?

No. Remapping can increase both performance and economy in most types of vehicles. Even a car with a 1 litre engine can receive good power gains from a remap, especially if it has a turbocharger.

Most modern cars these days have a turbocharger (or supercharger) fitted to the engine. An engine works by mixing compressed fuel with air and then igniting this mix inside its cylinders. Turbochargers and superchargers increase the fuel compression therefore allowing more fuel to fit inside the cylinders before igniting. More fuel equals more power. It is more fuel efficient to increase power this way rather than just having a larger engine to begin with. Emissions tend to be much lower too. This is why we are seeing more 3, 4 and 6 cylinder engines and fewer 8, 10 and 12 cylinder engines.

Remapped vehicles get the most benefit when there is a turbocharher or supercharger installed as the main changes that are made to the software are fuel compression, fuel/air mix and boost pressure. Remapping a naturally aspirated engine (one without a turbocharger or supercharger) means there is little that can be configured. This means you will likely not receive much of a power gain.

Will my economy increase as well as performance?

That all depends on how you drive. In theory, many remapped engines are capable of achieving the same economy as the same engine in pre-remapped form, and sometimes can even be more efficient. The big caveat though is that there is usually the opportunity to extract increased power from the engine. The majority of drivers - especially ones who have gone to the effort of getting their engines remapped - will most likely make use of this extra power, by accelerating more quickly when the opportunity arises. As a result they will likely use more fuel than before. After all, what is the main reason most people look for a remap? For increased performance.

Are there any other benefits besides performance and economy gains?

There can be, yes. Depending on the map you have installed, some vehicles will benefit from a valet mode, and immobiliser mode, which you can activate with a switch device. Immobilser mode means the car will not drive even if a thief manages to steal your keys and start the car. Without the switch, the car will simply not be driveable.

A valet mode can be very useful too. This is designed to be set when you hand your car over to a valeting company, or someone you do not want driving the car long distances but may require access to move the car in some way. The valet mode limits performance and top speed dramatically, for example by having a top speed of 10 or 20mph. This is great for peace of mind.

Similarly, many companies that have a fleet of vehicles for employees often have special maps installed that limit their vehicles to 70mph. This prevents employees from breaking the speed limit on motorways. So a remap is not necessarily just for people who want to drive faster.

Will I need to use a higher grade fuel with my remap?

Potentially, yes. It all depends on the type of map you have installed. Usually, you will safely be able to use the same fuel as before. (For more information on the different types of fuel, see our article Our guide to different types of fuel - Petrol vs Diesel). However, some performance cars may be mapped to a specific fuel grade. (ie 99 RON Octane in petrol cars or 55 CN Cetane in diesel cars), which means the car will perform to its optimum if you stick with that exact fuel grade. Damage will rarely be done to the vehicle if you use a lower grade fuel, but this will often result in a jerky drive and poorer performance, even more so than before the remap was installed. So always discuss the recommended fuel type to use with your tuner when getting your vehicle remapped.

As with any vehicle modification, you will have to declare the remap with your insurance company. Whether or not they accept the modification will be down to the specific insurer you have, but it’s very common to have an ECU remap. They will usually ask you what the power increase is in percent, and then let you know if they are happy to continue insuring you to drive the vehicle, and what the increased cost will be. There’s often an admin fee to make a policy change too, so bear this in mind.

If the insurance company is unable to continue insuring you, you’ll need to cancel and find another insurer that is. This means paying a cancellation fee and potentially losing any no claims bonus you may have accrued that year.

We would never recommend keeping the remap a secret, firstly because it’s illegal, and secondly because if you need to make a claim and the map is discovered then your insurer may invalidate your policy and refuse to pay out.

We think remapping a vehicle has many benefits, especially if your vehicle is already out of warranty. Always research the remap company well before letting anyone install third-party code onto your vehicle’s ECU, and always get an insurance quote beforehand as well. I’ve personally had my last two cars remapped and would always look to do it again on future cars.

What is engine remapping and is it worth it?

Not so long ago choosing a fuel type was pretty simple. You either went for petrol or diesel, and that was job done. Now there are a myriad of different fuels, each with many different classifications. Check out our guide to see what it all means.

Not so long ago choosing a fuel type was pretty simple. You either went for petrol or diesel, and that was job done.

Now there are a myriad of different fuels, each with many different classifications. Check out our guide to see what it all means.

This is the most common type of fuel in the UK. Bio Ethanol is mixed with Unleaded Petrol for the most environmentally friendly mix.

It can usually be bought as either Premium Unleaded (95 RON) or Super Unleaded (97/98 RON). You may also be able to purchase high-octane unleaded from some retailers, such as Shell’s V-Power Unleaded, which goes up to 99 RON.

RON refers to the octane rating. This measurement determines the ease at which the particular fuel will ignite inside the engine's cylinders. The higher the rating, the more difficult it is to ignite as it requires greater compression.

However, once it does ignite, it will burn at a higher temperature than lower-octane rated fuels. This means it can burn more efficiently and can increase performance.

The simple fact is that most Unleaded Petrol vehicles should just stick with standard Premium 95 RON petrol. This is because most engines will get very little or no benefit from higher-octane fuels.

The only vehicles that can benefit are high-performance cars with larger engines - many of which use turbochargers or superchargers to increase the fuel compression inside the cylinders. Some of these vehicles may notice an increase in performance from the higher-octane fuels.

In addition to performance and economy benefits, higher-octane fuel manufacturers - such as Shell V-Power and BP Ultimate - claim their fuels will also aid with increased engine lubrication and cleaning. That’s despite BP Ultimate only having a RON rating of 97.

If your vehicle is remapped, it may be mapped to a particular octane level. Remapping - sometimes called Chipping - is when third party software is installed on the Not so long ago choosing a fuel type was pretty simple. You either went for petrol or diesel, and that was job done.

Now there are a myriad of different fuels, each with many different classifications. Check out our guide to see what it all means. that changes parameters such as how much fuel enters the engine, the compression level of the fuel and boost settings for the turbochargers. Modifying these parameters can affect things such as fuel efficiency and performance.

Having a high-performance map on your car’s ECU often means you’ll need to use higher-octane rated fuel to benefit the most from the map. Whilst lower-octane fuels won’t damage the engine, it may result in sluggish or jerky combustion compared to the unmapped car. Always ask your car tuner which RON they recommend for the map you have installed. Also note, remapping nearly always invalidates your vehicle warranty. 

New EU rules introduced to standardise fuel labelling has meant that there are now new labels for all the different types of fuel based on their biofuel blend.

Petrol, for example, which is blended with Ethanol, has the label E, and comes usually in either E5 or E10 format. There is only really one that is sold mainstream in the UK: E5. The 5 is because it has 5% Ethanol, and 95% Regular Unleaded. E10 naturally has a 10%/90% ratio. Since it has more ethanol and less petrol it is greener and better for the environment.

Since 2011 all new petrol cars have been E10 compatible but the Society of Motor Manufacturers estimate that only 8% of petrol cars are actually E10 compatible. For now E5 remains the fuel available at most petrol stations across the UK. 

Like Petrol, there is more than one version of Diesel. They have what’s known as a Cetane CN rating - between 45 and 55. Like octane, the higher the cetane rating, the more efficiently it will burn, giving similar economy, performance and cleaning benefits as higher-octane petrol fuels.

Standard diesel is now referred to as B7 - due to its 7% biodiesel content. There is a B10 - available in France - but not all cars are compatible with it, so always check the fuel type your car accepts when travelling abroad.

Diesel used to be the fuel of choice for commuters and businesses who drive a lot of miles. That’s because diesel is more fuel-efficient than petrol. This is the reason most of the taxis you see (apart from the more modern electric ones) are diesel, rather than petrol.

As part of a push to reduce Carbon Dioxide (CO2) in the atmosphere, the UK reduced tax on diesel due to the fact it produced 15% less CO2 than petrol. As you could expect, the sales of diesel vehicles rocketed. Between 1995 and 2016 the market share for diesel vehicles went from 10% to 50%!

Unfortunately, it has now been discovered that diesel cars produce four times the amount of Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2) and 22 times more particulate matter - known for penetrating the brain, heart and lungs. Essentially, diesel is much worse for both the environment and people’s health. As a result, diesel is now taxed more than petrol.

Modern diesel cars are fitted with a particular filter to mitigate this problem, but if you do a lot of town or city driving this can become clogged. So a diesel vehicle is better-suited to longer distance driving.

In additional to this, the now infamous Volkswagon Emissions Scandal caused another huge blow for diesel. Many Volkswagon diesel vehicles were fitted with special software to detect emissions tests, which meant that the readings were falsified and gave the impression they were less environmentally damaging than what they actually were. When this came to light a lot of people were stuck with diesel vehicles (that they were pushed into buying through various government campaigns) that were now frowned upon.

As a result of all this, diesel sales are now dramatically falling, and petrol is back on the uptake. That said, it is Electric Vehicles now that are really gaining traction.

There is now an Ultra-Low Emissions Zone in London - with many more cities looking to follow suit. It follows the same boundaries as the Congestion Charge zone (currently £11.50 per day between 7am and 6pm) but adds an additional £12.50 to the cost and applies 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. All diesel vehicles that do not meet Euro 6 standard have to pay, with petrol cars needing to meet Euro 4 standard. Electric vehicles are naturally exempt, due to their zero-emissions.

It’s been coming for many years but electric vehicles are now taking the UK by storm. With Tesla’s being the first to be mass-produced and sold, nearly all manufacturers are now producing either hybrid or fully electric vehicles.

Fully electric vehicles produce no emissions at all and so are exempt from vehicle excise duty. They often come with a higher initial price tag than petrol or diesel cars, but running costs are around 75% less, so if you drive a lot of miles then an EV could be a financially wise (and environmentally friendly) option. You may also have the option of recharging your car at home and be able to skip the dreaded “fuel stop” on the way home from work. For more information check out Is it time to buy an electric vehicle?.

Unless you’re driving a considerable number of miles, we’d always recommend petrol over diesel. It’s cleaner and cheaper. If you’re thinking more long term and are happy to pay the initial higher price tag, an Electric Vehicle may be for you.

https://www.jct600.co.uk/blog/fuel-types-explained/

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/driving-advice/what-is-the-best-fuel-for-my-car-a-guide-to-different-fuel-types/

Our guide to different types of fuel - Petrol vs Diesel

Buying your next car can be a stressful experience. Knowing how much to spend, which make and model will be best, where to look, how to haggle - all these things can quickly take the fun out of getting your next car. Here are our top tips to help you on your journey.

Buying your next car can be a stressful experience. Knowing how much to spend, which make and model will be best, where to look, how to haggle - all these things can quickly take the fun out of getting your next car.

Here are our top tips to help you on your journey.

Before we start, it's important to know whether you'd like a new or used car. Check out our article Used car vs new car - Which should you buy? for the pros and cons for each.

If you've decided on buying a used car, then read on...

The first and most important thing to know is how much money you have. When looking for your next car you can very quickly start looking at some that are more expensive than what you can actually afford - especially once dealerships start teasing you with their finance packages. So rule number one, decide on a budget and stick to it. If you’ve not already, check out our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car? to see whether cash or finance - such as PCP or Hire Purchase - will be your preferred way to pay for the vehicle.

For many people the first place they start looking for a car will be the local dealership for their favourite manufacturer. The problem with this is you’re immediately cutting out 95% of your options by excluding other brands. The sales person will, of course, convince you that only their cars are suitable, but in reality there are so many good cars out there it’s best not to narrow it down to one make at this point.

Instead, decide on a “type” of car. Think about what the car will be used for, how many passengers you may be carrying, and what sort of boot space you may require. This will help you work out if you need a hatchback, estate, saloon, 4x4 or sports car for example. If you would like more information on the types of drivetrain available, ie front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive and all-wheel-drive, check out our article Rear-wheel drive vs Front-wheel drive vs All-wheel drive - Which is best?.

Once you have an idea of the type of car you are after - you can very quickly see what different cars are out there online. Online car sites such as AutoTrader and Cinch will greatly aid you in this process. Simply put in your desired price range, maximum age and mileage you’d consider and select which types of car you are considering and click Search. Note, we still don’t search by a specific make yet!

Next you’ll be presented by an endless list of cars, many of which you will most likely not have even considered beforehand.

Make a shortlist of your favourite 4 or 5 of the cars in the list. For example, if you’re after a medium-sized family saloon the list may look something like:

Once you have your list then it’s time to hit google and youtube. This, in my opinion, is the single most important step on the list. Every time I am in the market for my next car, I start my search about 6 months before I’m ready to buy. It’s important to read as many online reviews for each make and model of car you are considering as possible. And don’t just read, watch reviews online too. YouTube is a great resource for this. Combining these approaches will help you to build up a picture of which make and model will be best suited to your needs.

Now this is the fun part. Always, always, test drive before you commit to any particular car. Once you’ve done your research you’ll most likely have a good idea which cars you think will be right for you. Simply ring up your local manufacturer dealership and say you’d like to book a test drive. Test drives are always free, come with no obligation and will give you a first-hand experience of what the car is actually like to drive. You’ll have to listen to the sales person’s spiel the whole time, just be sure to filter out the adjectives - listen to the facts and remember all the cons you will have read online or heard on youtube. The sales person won’t mention any of those…

Repeat the above process for each car you are considering. Then compare.

After your test drives, the last thing you want to do is enquire what cars they have available for you. This will limit your options to only the cars that they have. Instead, go back to Autotrader or Cinch and search for the make/model/age/mileage you have decided upon. All the cars for sale in the country (or ones within your distance filter) will be on there. As a general rule I leave the distance filter on National - or at least 200+ miles. In my opinion it’s worth a one-off long drive to pick up the right car. After all, you’ll most likely be spending a great deal of money on it and owning it for a long time. Don’t just buy the closest one. Some may even have nationwide delivery anyway!

Now you’ll be presented with a much more concise list of cars that meet the exact criteria you want. This is where things get really exciting as any one of these cars could be the one you’ll be driving away with. It’s important not to get too carried away though, we need to look at each car with a fine-tooth comb to make sure it absolutely right. So onto the next step.

The first thing we need to do is exclude any cars that do not meet a certain criteria we need. The first major filter to add is whether you want to buy private or trade. Unless you’re spending less than maybe a couple of thousand of pounds, I’d recommend always buying trade. There’s less to worry about and you’ll have more recourse if there’s an issue. Private car sales will be cheaper though.

Any cars with Category C damage or no service history should be immediately excluded. Do you really want a car that’s been in an accident or hasn’t been looked after? I tend to look for Full Service History (FSH) as a minimum, and also check if there are any imminent services required on the vehicle; as these could add an addition £500 or more to the cost of the car.

Most dealerships will give you a full MOT with the vehicle, but this is also worth checking upon enquiry. If not, then move onto the next car.

Not all dealerships are equal. Each car that is advertised for sale will say who the dealership is. Is it a manufacturer or independent dealership? With a manufacturer dealership you have better protection than via an independent one. So always read the online reviews. TrustPilot or Google Reviews are great resources for this. If previous customers have been dealt a bad hand in the past, no doubt they’ll have left comments on either of those two platforms. Also check their website. Do they look professional? Do they even have a showroom? All these questions will help you to decide if the dealership is genuine, trustworthy, or just a single person masquerading as something they’re not.

If the dealership looks good, the next thing I like to do is ring them up and have a chat about the car. Here is a list of questions I like to ask:

When was the car registered?
It’s always good to know the exact registration date, rather than just which year. This will tell you exactly how old the car is.

How long have you had the car?
The longer the dealership has had the car, the more eager they will be to sell. If they’ve literally just picked it up they may be less likely to come down as much on price. On the flip side, if they’ve had it for a while, they might just give you a deal to get it off their hands.

Do you have the V5C and two sets of keys?
All vehicles will have a V5C document, also known as the log book or registration document. This states the make/model and keeper of the vehicle. Vehicles are usually sold with two sets of keys. If there’s only one, ask why? One of the previous owners may still have it!

What was the reason for the previous owner’s sale?
Always interesting to know. A lot of the time they may not know, but they may come back with something insightful.

How many previous owners has the car had?
If the car’s had a lot of owners it may not have been treated well, and may have underlying issues prompting it to be sold on quickly. Similar, if it’s only had one or two previous owners who kept it for a long time, it is more likely to have been cared for.

Any dents, scratches, signs of damage?
Good dealers will always be honest with you and tell you about any minor damage. A lot of the time they may say something along the lines of “it has a minor scratch on the driver’s side door, but this will be repaired upon sale.” For any agreements such as this make sure you get them in writing. If they say the car is floorless, don’t just take their word for it. When you go visit the car, check it top to bottom.

How much tread is left on the tyres?
This is always a good one. If all the tyres are really low you could end up spending hundreds of pounds within a few weeks getting them all replaced. A lot of dealers will have a minimum-tread promise where all their cars come with a certain amount as standard, but this is always worth checking.

How much wear is on the brake pads?
Like above, you won’t want to be replacing these as soon as you’ve purchased the vehicle. Make sure there’s plenty of miles left on the brake pads. If not, request they get replaced as part of any deal you make,

Does the car have a new MOT?
Usually the dealer will give you a new 12 month MOT, but always check this. You can do an online MOT check for any vehicle now on the government website. You can see the vehicle’s previous MOT History. Take a look specifically at any advisories it may have had. Check with the dealer if the advisories have been done. This may be something you could use as a haggling tool later on.

Drive-away warranty
Without any warranty you are legally responsible for the vehicle as soon as you sign contracts. If the car dies on the way home there’s not much you can do and you’ll have to fork out for the repair bill yourself. Most dealerships will give you 3-6 months warranty (if there’s no manufacturer’s warranty left on the vehicle), but always check if this is the case. If not, then be very careful. Usually, I’d walk away.

Drive-away insurance
Some dealers offer you a free week drive-away insurance to get you on the road. Having said that, this has become much less common as they are quite expensive for the dealers. It’s worth asking, regardless.

Is the car ready for collection / delivery?
Sometimes dealerships will require a few days to get the car ready for collection, to repair any minor damages, valet and prepare the car. It’s worth checking this in advance. They may also offer a nationwide delivery service - sometimes free, so ask if this is an option. If they do, they’ll usually pick-up any part-exchange you may have also.

Do you take part-exchange?
The majority of dealerships will accept your current car as part-exchange, but some may not. If you need part-exchange as part of the deal, ask them for a quote and make sure you’re happy with it.

Can I book a test drive?
I’d never buy a car without test driving it first. If the dealership is fussy about letting you drive it, then walk away. They may be trying to hide something.

If you’re happy with all of the answers to the above, then move on to booking a test drive.

If you’re part-exchanging your current vehicle then you will most likely take it with you on the day of the test drive. Be sure to give it a full valet inside and out. If the the car looks in poor condition on the day, you’re less likely to get full price for it. Do some research, find out how much it should be worth. Apps such as Autotrader allow you to put in your car registration and mileage to see what it could be worth to sell privately or as part-exchange.

The dealer will most likely ask you what you think it’s worth, or how much you want for it. Show them you’ve done your research. Say something like, “for a car of this age, mileage and condition I’d like a minimum of X thousand pounds, if not i’d probably sell it privately.”. Be sure to add 10% on to whatever price you researched beforehand. The dealer will rarely offer you more than what you’re after, and will most likely knock you down. Also, they make huge mark-ups on part-exchanged vehicles, and if they think you are willing to sell it privately instead, may potentially offer you a bit extra to incentivise you take the easy option of part-exchanging with them. 

Yes, it’s time to go on another test drive. But this time you are test driving the actual vehicle you may be purchasing, so you need to pay extra-special attention. Here’s a handy check-list when you turn up at the dealership:

Check all the vehicle documents
The most important is the V5C as mentioned above. Make sure the make and model match the car, and also the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) should match that in the lower corner of the windscreen.

Check for dents, scratches, blemishes
Before driving the car take a good look around it, top to bottom. Make sure you visit the car on a day where the sun is out and it is dry. Rain has a terrible habit of covering up shoddy paint work. If you find anything, make a note and bring them up later. 

Check the Tyre tread
1.6mm is the legal minimum, buying anything with less than 3mm tread means a replacement will be due soon.

Electrics
Make sure all the fundamental electrics work. Windows, radio, wipers and lights.

Glass
Check there are no chips or cracks in the glass. If there are these should be sorted before sale.

Upholstery
Check for wear and tear and the overall condition. Are there any rips? What does it smell like? If the car has had a smoker as a previous owner it can be hard to get rid of the smell.

Panel Gaps
Check if there are any unusually large gaps between the panels. If you find any it means the car may have been in a crash and repaired poorly.

Wheel accessories
Should the car come with a spare wheel? If so, is it there?

Once you’ve gone through all of the above checks, then open the bonnet and start the car. Even if you have no idea what you’re doing, or what you’re looking for, the sheer fact you’ve opened the bonnet and leaning in will give a message to the sales person you are taking this seriously and won’t be palmed off. 

On the drive, make sure the car drives as expected. The sales person will most likely talk a lot to you to take your attention away from the car and onto whatever it is they want you to hear. Don’t take any notice of them and focus on the car. Is it smooth? Are there any strange sounds or smells? If you notice any, bring them up on the spot. See how the sales person reacts. You should be able to tell if they knew about them beforehand.

If you’re happy with the car, the only thing left to do is agree a price. At this point, if you want a good deal for the car you need to be prepared to walk away. Don’t let excitement take over as it could cost you hundreds or even thousands of pounds. Remember, the sales person will have put a lot of time and effort into you as a customer up until now and they will want the sale as much as you want the car.

Firstly, if you’re part exchanging, treat the new car and your old one as two separate transactions. Don’t make the mistake I made once of getting a great deal on my part-exchange, driving away chuffed then realising id paid full price for the new car and so essentially I ended up getting ripped off.

The sales person will try to offer you a “good price” on your part-exchange by offsetting it against the new car. Ignore all of this and insist on two separate prices. One for the part-exchange, and one for the new car.

As a general rule, some discount is always factored into the price of a car at a dealership. You can usually go in with a first offer around 10% lower and gauge their reaction. This is unlikely to be accepted, but if you can aim to get 5% off, then you’ve not done too badly. Again, make sure any discount you get is independent to your part-exchange price if you get one. There is no point having one great deal, and one bad one. They cancel each other out.

The sales person may have incentives to sell a particular type of finance, such as PCP, and offer an additional discount if you take out the plan. Car finance has high levels of interest and any interest you pay will go above and beyond any extra discount you may be offered, so bear this in mind.

When you’re close to a deal, ask them if they’ll throw in a full tank of petrol. The chance of them turning down such a small gesture is unlikely, as they won’t want to jeopardise the deal, and you may just save yourself £50. Enough to buy a bottle of bubbly for when you get home to celebrate!

Finally, if you’re happy with the deal, then that’s it, the hard part is done. If something still doesn't seem right, or you need time to think it through, don’t be afraid to walk away. The dealer will most likely follow up with you in a few days. And if on the off chance someone else has snapped up the car in the meantime, don’t worry. There are always other cars.

The dealer will never advertise the tax due until the very end, and usually once a deal has been agreed. Tax rules have changed and can no longer be transferred with the vehicle to a new owner. So you’ll need to tax the car from scratch once you’ve bought it. The dealer will rarely ever cover the cost of this, so check the car’s tax bracket and add it into your budget. (If you’ve part-exchanged you’ll automatically receive a rebate for any unused months left on the tax.) 

Also be sure you have insurance to drive the vehicle when you collect it. With the exception of free drive-away insurance (as mentioned above) you’ll be responsible for making sure you are legally licenced and insured to drive the vehicle once you get the keys.

That’s pretty much it. These are the steps I follow every time I purchase a vehicle and they have saved me a lot of money over the years. If you’re anything like me and find purchasing a car very stressful - despite your love of cars - then hopefully this can help make things a little easier for you.

And when you get your new car, always keep it well maintained and serviced. You’ll be thankful in the long run.

How to buy a used car - What the dealers don't want you to know!

When looking for your next car the first big decision to make is whether to buy new or used. We discuss the benefits and downsides of each.

The first thing to assess is the cost. A newer car will cost significantly more up front than a used one, and will also depreciate heavily over the first 2 to 3 years. As a general rule, a new car loses around 20% as soon as it drives off the forecourt, and most are worth only half their new price when they reach 3 years old. As the vehicle gets older, the rate of depreciation gradually slows down, so a used car will not lose as much value as a new one.

Newer cars will most likely have more expensive tax than used ones. Since 1st April 2017 there have been new calculations for road tax based on the vehicle’s fuel type and emissions, and not surprisingly, a lot of cars now have a higher tax liability as a result. All cars registered before 1st April 2017 keep the same tax bracket as before, but most new ones - even ones that previously qualified for tax exemption - now have a minimum charge of £140. For more information visit the government website: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-vehicle-tax-rates-from-1-april-2017.

With advancement in technology - and government regulations with ever-stricter laws being introduced - newer cars are more efficient and less pollutive to the environment. So even though newer cars may cost more to buy, tax and insure, if you drive a lot of miles you should find it costs ever so slightly less to fill up at the pump.

For even better efficiency you could consider buying an electric vehicle. Admittedly, they still cost more to buy than both petrol and diesel vehicles, but they are considerably cheaper to run. Check out our aricle Is it time to buy an electric vehicle? to see if an electric car might be best for you.

One of the best things about buying new is that you can choose the exact specification you want, with all the options you want. Buying used means you’re unlikely to get the exact specification you want and means you’ll have to compromise, whether that’s on the colour, trim, engine size and so on.

Many options are also only available when the car is first built and can’t be retrofitted. And even options that can be retrofitted, whether manufacturer or third-party, may not add anything to the value of the car upon resale. In fact, many modifications will actually lower the value of the car.

Because new cars are built to order there are often long waiting times between the point of ordering and the car being delivered. This can be several months or even over a year depending on the car. If you’re happy to wait then this won’t be a problem, but many of us start looking for our next car “when we want one”, not 6 months earlier. Buying used generally means the car will be available immediately - or at least within a few days.

All new vehicles come with a warranty; often 3 or more years. This means you’ll have peace of mind that if anything breaks you’ll be fully covered by the manufacturer. Wear and tear items such as brake pads and tyres are not included so expect to pay for any replacements/repairs out of your own pocket for these.

Most manufacturer dealerships - and the majority of independent dealerships - will offer a few months warranty on used car purchases to give you peace of mind; this is usually 3 to 6 months. 

There are also often additional warranty packages available for used cars - depending on their age, condition and mileage. It’s highly worth considering as you will not know how the car has been treated in the past, and may not be aware of any hidden underlying issues that could be expensive to fix. A full service history (FSH) and list of receipts will help to build a picture of the life that the car has had.

On this note, if you’re buying a used car from a dealership with absolutely no drive-away warranty then be very careful. If this is the case and your engine explodes on the way home, then you’ll have no recourse with the dealership; you’ll be stumping up the repair costs yourself.

All vehicles are required to undergo and pass an MOT every year. New cars are exempt for the first 3 years and so this is one less thing to worry about if buying new. Used cars are also more likely to have issues that could fail an MOT as well. Essentially, the ongoing maintenance of used cars will be higher than new ones. So even if the price of the car is lower, the actual “cost of ownership” of a used car could be higher depending on how much maintenance is required while you own it.

The majority of privately bought vehicles use some form of car finance. There are generally better deals available for newer cars with lower interest rates. Although, because newer cars cost more than used ones, you’ll be paying a highly monthly figure.

Check out our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car? for some advice and tips on which finance package might be best for you.

For those of you who are into your tech, this is a major plus. Most new cars come with the latest technology and infotainment systems. If you like huge, wide, touch-screens, Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, bluetooth, starting your car with your phone, keyless entry and anything else you can think of, then a new car is for you. Even a car that’s a few years old can have seriously outdated technology in the cockpit.

Always check the latest models, though, as some new cars still come with “last generation” technology. This is often on “facelifted” models where they want to save the new flashy tech for the brand new versions usually following a couple of years later.

Most new cars now come with the option of “Driver Assistance packages” - at a cost, of course. These clever new systems are becoming more and more impressive each year, with features such as Automatic Braking, Adaptive Cruise Control, Lane Assist, Parking Assist with Sensors and Cameras. This myriad of features can assist you while you drive and help to prevent accidents caused by human error. It’s important to know that these are all “assistance only” features, and you should always remain in full control at all times at the wheel.

In the future we can expect to see these assistance packages being replaced with vehicle autonomy features, where the cars really will drive themselves. Google, Tesla and Uber are among an ever-increasing list of companies making a big push for driverless vehicles.

Also, all new cars undergo stringent safety tests to ensure their durability and the safety of their passengers. As a result newer cars are generally safer than older ones, so if this is a high priority for you, then check out the Euro NCAP rating for whichever models of car you are interested in. For more information on Euro NCAP (New Car Assessment Programme) visit their website: https://www.euroncap.com/en.

There’s nothing quite like getting into a brand new car. They smell amazing, the upholstery and the buttons all feel amazing. It’s clean and fresh. If you’re willing to pay a premium for a new car, then this is one of the perks. Don’t forget though, cars don’t stay new for long. Give it a few weeks or months and the novelty will wear off, so make sure this isn’t the only reason you’re thinking about buying a new car.

One third option to consider is buying a “Nearly-new” car. A nearly-new car is a car that is only a few months old and has not been owned by an individual; usually by a dealership or a lease/hire company.

All dealerships require stock of new cars for their showrooms and for demo use. In order to obtain these they have to buy and register one from the manufacturer. For this reason you could bag yourself a nearly-new car with as much as 10-20% off the list price.

What’s the catch? Nearly-new cars have obviously already been built, and so you will have to compromise on the options and specifications list. And since they may have been used as demo cars, or possibly as a lease/hire, they may have had a rather hard start in life; being driven by a large number of people who won’t have cared much for it. That said I have personally owned an ex-demo car, and one of my closest friends has as well, and neither of us ever had any issues.

Ultimately the choice of buying new or used comes down to your personal preference. New cars are amazing, they’re great to drive, they’re great to sit in, great to look at, and they make you feel good when you own one. Used cars can have 95% of all of the above without breaking your bank balance. So it’s up to you.

For what it’s worth, when I’m looking for my next car, I look for cars 6 -15 months old. They’re around 20% less than new, are still in warranty and usually have very few miles on the clock. In my opinion, that’s the sweet spot.

Used car vs new car - Which should you buy?

When choosing your next car there are so many factors to consider. And even once you’ve decided which car you want, you suddenly get presented with your next dilemma: how to finance it.

According to the Finance and Leasing Association, 88% of new private cars bought in 2017 were paid for with some form of finance.

There are six main ways you can go about obtaining your next car. Hire Purchase (HP), Personal Contract Purchase (PCP), Personal Loan, Credit Card, Lease, Cash

HP is a very simple way of paying for a vehicle. You pay an initial deposit - usually around 10% of the value of the vehicle. You divide the remainder by the number of months in your contract (ie 48 months), add some interest - usually around 6-7% Annual Percentage Rate (APR) - depending on the market) and there you have your monthly payment. Keep an eye open for 0% finance deals too, this could save you thousands in interest over the course of the loan.

You won’t need to give the car back at the end of the period, so there’s no worrying about mileage or condition either. You will end up paying a great deal more than if you’d bought in cash, simply because of the interest, so it’s worth checking out the total amount to be paid before signing up. Also note, that until the term of your contract is up, you will not own the vehicle. This means you won’t be able to modify or sell it on until the end of the contract either.

PCP seems to be a favourite among dealers at the moment. It’s sort of a halfway house between hire purchase and leasing. Because dealers love this option so much you often get offered £1,000 or more off the purchase to take them up on it. Don’t be fooled, though, whatever they’re offering you, you’ll be paying more than that in interest over the lifetime of the finance agreement.

You will pay an initial lump sum - usually around 20% or so of the value of the vehicle. You will then be given set monthly payments for a fixed period, ie 48 months. 

The main difference is that when your fixed term ends you don’t own the car. Instead you’ll be given two options:

A pre-agreed final payment to purchase the car at that point - often referred to as the Guaranteed Minimum Future Value (GMFV)

Simply hand the car back to the finance company

The reason the monthly payments are considerably lower than for hire purchase is because the total amount paid is offset by how much the car is worth at the end of the agreement. The loan amount is essentially the cost of car plus interest, minus the deposit and the GMFV.

Many people opt for PCP because of these low monthly payments and knowing the amount you’ll have to pay to buy the vehicle at the end of the contract upfront is helpful for budgeting.

Be mindful that you will have to adhere to pre-agreed terms such as a mileage per year and final condition of the car. Go over the mileage, or try to hand the car back in a poor condition and you’ll be charged additional fees.

If you buy the vehicle at the end, then the total amount paid will be roughly similar to that of a hire purchase plan.

Many banks offer personal loans for things such as home improvements and new cars. This is one option to consider as the money is rarely secured against your property or vehicle and tends to come with much lower interest rates than car finance.

Because the loan is also not secured against the vehicle you’ll need to have a good credit rating to get a decent interest rate. One of the reasons car finance such as PCP and HP has such high interest rates is because of their leniency for poorer credit ratings and higher frequency of payment defaults.

Essentially, if you qualify for a personal loan, it might be worth considering over car finance.

Once received you can simply buy the car outright. Of course, you’ll still need to manage and keep up with the monthly loan payments

One huge plus side to both personal loans and car finance is that they can actually have a positive effect on your credit rating - as long as you keep up the payments. Apply for too many loans though and this’ll show up too and will have a negative effect.

Depending on your credit limit, you may be able to pay for the vehicle, either in full or in part, on a credit card.

If you have 0% on purchases for a fixed term this could be a great way to finance your vehicle without paying any interest. Just be sure to pay the full balance off before the interest free period ends. Otherwise you’ll end up paying huge levels of interest. Alternatively you may be able to transfer the balance to another 0% interest on purchases credit card, but this usually incurs a balance transfer fee.

One major benefit of buying on a credit card is that even if you put just a small amount on it, then you’ll be covered by Section 75 of the consumer credit act. This means that if something goes wrong with the vehicle or the purchase then your credit card company may be able to help.

Be aware though that some dealerships won’t accept credit cards due to the high transaction fees, which can no longer be passed onto the consumer.

With leasing you basically rent the car for a set period; usually 3 - 4 years. You will pay an initial deposit and then a set amount every month, like hire purchase.

One of the main advantages to leasing is that the car is always new, and is usually fully covered by warranty for the duration of the lease. Any issues or problems and you can rest assured it’s the problem of the lease company. Some packages also include servicing and vehicle tax as well. So shop around for the best deals.

The major difference between leasing and the other options is that you do not ever actually own the vehicle and at the end of the term you’ll have to hand it back. Like PCP, you’ll also have to abide by a pre-agreed number of annual miles, and the vehicle will have to be in good condition upon return.

If you have the capital available then buying a car outright with cash is a very good option. You’ll pay absolutely no interest on the price of the car, and you will have no monthly payments to worry about either.

You will need to have the full amount available in your account to complete the purchase. If your money is tied up in fixed-term savings accounts there may be a fee for withdrawing early.

Some people also have their money in Stocks and Shares ISAs so it may take a few days to a few weeks for your broker to sell your investments and return your cash to you. You’ll also stop earning any dividend payments your holdings may have been paying, and there will be no further potential capital gain on your investment.

It’s also worth noting that you have an ISA limit each year (currently £20,000 in 2019/20 tax year) and once you hit that limit you cannot pay into it until the next tax year. Therefore, think carefully before withdrawing from your ISA to pay for a car.

In summary, there's no right or wrong when it comes to financing your next vehicle, it just depends on your budget and financial situation at the time. Whichever option is best for you, don’t let the dealer persuade you. They’ll often have ulterior motives and will be pushing you towards the option that gets them the most commission.

And finally, haggle! Regardless of the method of payment, when buying a vehicle it’s always important to try to get as much off the price as possible. It’s factored into the sale price.

There’s always room for manoeuvre and the dealer would rather sacrifice a percent here or there to stop you walking out the doors and into the dealership across the road.

PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?

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Your vehicles in one digital garage.With MOT, Road Tax, Service renewal reminder service & much more.

New features coming soon...

Renewal reminders & Alerts

Stolen vehicle notifications

Full MOT History

Transfer to other users

Digitally store receipts

Accident Report

Send you reminders & alerts

Send notifications for stolen vehicles

Our Latest Posts

What is engine remapping and is it worth it?

Our guide to different types of fuel - Petrol vs Diesel

How to buy a used car - What the dealers don't want you to know!

Used car vs new car - Which should you buy?

PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?

Your vehicles in one digital garage.
With MOT, Road Tax, Service renewal reminder service & much more.